There is so much to say about India. It is mad, it is dirty, it is beautiful, it is spiritual, it is bureaucratic, it is incredible, it is noisy, it is haunting, it is annoying, it is uplifting, it is rich... so rich in colour, culture, history, knowledge. But the adjective to use most of all for India- surprising. In India- always expect the unexpected.
We are in Kerala, in S-India and the whole experience of the south has been surprising. Almost no hassles here compared to the north. There is of course the traffic... The traffic is mad, and noisy and did I say mad...? The chaos in traffic is like a law of nature in India, and in other countries in S-E Asia also, perhaps it is an expression of their philosophy and ideology about life. Rickshaws imagine themselves to be Formula 1 drivers and actually call their vehicles Air-Con Ferraris. :) Buses never slow down for any pedestrians. But on the whole it has been an easy journey so far and the southern Indians have proven to be very helpful, laid-back, friendly and surprisingly honest in their business dealings. Yes of course a few rickshaw drivers have tried to over-charge us, but even this experience has been quite minimal. Southern India so far- a bliss, a relaxing little haven with a lot of soul to it.
Some pictures from the road to Kerala.
We have been staying in the economical center of Kerala- Ernakulum. It has been a welcome change to be in a metropolitan city for a few reasons- the main one is getting real coffee!! (Now the only problem is getting someone to understand the concept of mayonnaise... :)) But we came here for two reasons- first to visit fort Kochi, a little fishing village and historically an important trading hub for Portuguese and other European sea-farers, and the resting place of the famous Vasco da Gama.
Kochi is a lovely little village indeed, from the minute of disembarkment you will smell the putrid smell of fish but this gives the place character along with the goats ambling along the streets everywhere, the all-too-honest-for-their-own-good rickshaw drivers, and the unfamiliar by now sight of tourists on the streets.
South India is also quite Christian, of course along with the traders came the converters. But the Indians have done their magic and have apparently achieved the impossible- they have breathed life into this dead/dying religion. We saw one Christian procession on the streets with singing, dancing and colourful umbrellas and it looked incredibly refreshing indeed. There are several Christian churches in Kochi and they are lovely- simple and with very few adornments (if you don't count the goats of course :) ).
The main item of trading here was and is spices. Most of the ayurvedic medicine ingredients come from here. We also treated ourselves to some ayurvedic treatments, especially recommendable is the treatment of Shirodhara (also called Panchakarma)- for about 40 minutes warm medicinal oil is streamed onto ones forehead. Popularily known as the third eye treatment of Lord Shiva, this treatment is proven to be rejuvenating and giving one deep relaxation and inner peace. It certainly made Hille felt like she could fly... :)
We also went to see the classical dance-drama of Kerala- Kathakali. With its colourful costumes and make-up, the funny movements, very extreme facial expressions and beautiful accompanying music, it was a performance to remember for sure.
Our second reason to be here was of course to do a Kerala backwaters boat tour. We cruised those wonderful rivers and canals for a day, it was magical to slowly drift between the jungle and watch the little villages on the close-by shores. The main livelihood of the people living in the villages- ayurvedic medicine, fruit plantations and making rope.
On to Goa in a few days...
Lii: Mis siis lisaks eelnimetatule voiks mainida esimeste India nadalate kohta?
Esiteks tuleb meelde 'masala chai' (see on tee piima ja erinevate vurtsidega), pole tukk aega nii palju teed joonud, kui siin viimase kahe nadala jooksul. Lihtsalt nii maitsev on! Minul on saanud kombeks 'chaid' tellida 4 kaupa, sest 1 tass korraga on ikka selgelt vahe:)
Esimene nadal Trichys oli pohiliselt valja puhkamiseks peale aastavahetust ja pikki paadi- ja bussireise. Kulastasime seal ka hinduistlikke templeid, kuhu kahjuks paris igale poole sisse ei saanud, sest paljudes kohtades oli sissepaas ainult hindudele :-(
Arvatavasti on turistide massid neil palvusi hakanud segama.
Omaparasematest vahejuhtumitest meenub uks, kui room-serviciga 'chaid' tuppa tellisime. Teenindaja, kelleks oli uks India noormees, jai parast tee toomist minu ette seisma ja hakkas peadvangutades (nii nagu Indias ikka kombeks kuljelt-kuljele) midagi seletama. Me olime Hillega juba esimestel paevadel aru saanud, et me peame ilmselt India aktsendiga inglise keele kursustele minema. Seegi kord ei saanud me esialgu midagi aru, mis sellel poisil mureks on. Peale pikka suhtlust kehakeeles moistsime lopuks, et ta soovib vaadata, et ega meil musti nousid voodi all ei ole. No loomulikult, kuhu me koik mustad noud ikka paneme, kui voodi alla:)) Ja parast sain ka aru, miks selline omaparane soov voodi alla vaadata. Sest samal ajal, kui ta voodi alla vaatas, kobas tema kasi minu maasoleva kaekoti kallal ja vupsti oli tal 500 Ruupiat sealt pihus. Sain nuud aru, kuhu eelmisel paeval oli 1000 Ruupiat kadunud. Eelmiselgi paeval oli ta sealt maast ka 'midagi' korjamas kainud. Onneks jai see mul tol paeval silma ja sain oma 500 Ruupiat tagasi. Poiss pogenes jooksujalu...kahju hakkas kohe temast.
Aga uldiselt on inimesed siin vaga sobralikud ja abivalmid. Siin lounapool raagitakse ikka paris palju inglise keelt, kui ainult aktsendist paremini aru saaks. Ja peavangutamise subtiitreid oleks ka vaja- kord tahendab see 'jaa', kord 'ei' ja monikord 'ei tea'.
Kerjuseid on siin paris palju, kull invaliide, lastega naisi, vanemaid naisi ja muid erinevaid tuupe. Silma on jaanud, et eriti noudlikud on just need vanemad naised, olen saanud ikka paris pahaseid lakse vastu olga, kui ilma raha loovutamata olen moodunud. No teeb ikka vist kurjaks kull, kui paev otsa pead tuhjalt vahtima:) Ilmselt eelistatakse invaliide ja lastega naisi.
Bussireisid on ka paris toredad olnud, peatustes kaivad muugimehed peast oma toodetest deklameerimas, nagu tublid koolipoisid luuletust. Vaga soravalt ja ilmekalt. Nii...siin on selline ponev mahlapress....sellega saab teha nii ja hopsti on mahl klaasis..nii... kas kellelgi on soovi osta.....aa madam akki uks teile...ah ei soovi, tanan. Jargmine muugimees...siin on uhed vaga toredad maanteekaardid...jargneb tuttavalt ilmekas tutvustus jargmise muugimehe poolt ja nii paris mitmete toodete osas. Mida koike ei saaks bussist osta, nagu elav 'teleturg'. Vaga lobus!
Ja milline adrenaliin on bussisoidul, kui istud esimeses reas bussijuhi taga...oeh...pole uhelegi ponevusfilmile nii kaasa elanud kui bussijuhi manoovritele viimasel bussireisil Cochisse.
No kas jouab mooda, enne kui see teine buss vastu tuleb voi mitte...vaiksemate soidukite parast vaga ei muretsenud, need on vist harjunud vahepeal vosast labi soitma, kui moni buss julgelt vastu soidab.
Ja mis huvitav bussist valjumine meil oli kohalejoudes. Kohe kui bussiuksed avanesid hakkas metsik rahvamass uksest sisse trugima..jah, just sisse, mitte valja.
See, et sa valjuda soovid, ei huvita kedagi. Uks inimene jai tukkapidi Hille pluusi noobi kulge kinni. Hille proovis puudlikult teda noobi kuljest lahti harutada, aga vaesekesel polnud aega oodata, oli vaja ju edasi trugida. Nii ta uhest kolmandikust tukast ilma jaigi:)
Kokkuvottes voib oelda, et vaga huvitav ja tore on Indias siiani olnud, vaga tihedalt oleme sonavarast kasutusele votnud sona 'omaparane'.
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